Friday, May 28, 2010

La Senda Verde

Nina

Oh where to start?

My third volunteering stint was at an amazing animal refuge called La Senda Verde ('the green path') in Las Yungas - the subtropical valleys a couple of hours north east of La Paz. I spent just over two weeks here and fulfilled a long time dream - to meet the monkeys! The work involved food preparation, cleaning and socialising with all the birds and animals! Plus giving speeches to, and supervising tourists – this task was usually made more interesting by monkeys jumping on you, tourists or their beers part way through.

The refuge housed over 200 birds and animals, from an Andean Spectacled bear to an Amazonian black Cayman!

Aruma the Andean Spectacled Bear

To feed Aruma, and clear out his eating area, one volunteer had to distract him with peanuts whilst the other ran around like a mad thing. On the one occasion something spooked him and he came back down to the feeding area early we all panicked but he ignored Vicky and just went on sniffing his food and organising it. He licked to sort it in to favourite food last!

The Bolivian owners, Marcelo and Vicky, had originally wanted to set up an Eco-hotel and the refuge side of it only started when locals told Marcelo of a monkey that a truck driver had and was taking in to La Paz to sell. Marcelo is such an animal lover he intercepted and rescued the monkey from the driver, since then his reputation as an animal lover grew and more local people came forward to get his help. Now a large organisation (animal SOS), based in La Paz rescue animals and send them out to Marcelo. The government do the same – hence 85 baby turtles arrived on his doorstep, but with no funding – so until their new enclosure is built they are in his bathroom!

Marcelo and his children..
2 of the 85 new arrivals

There were two Koatis (animals from the racoon family)

Gio and Kantuka.
Koatis are generally not a'friendly' species but Kantuka seemed to think she was a cat.
On the subject of cats, there was also the beautiful Sasha - a tree Ocelot.
Dinner time for Sasha
There are a lot of very beautiful birds, some missing a lot of feathers due to stress, but all with great characters.

Pygmy owls

A once stressed bird
..and 5 species of monkey. All of whom had been rescued from the black market, abusive homes, or were unwanted pets.
The 5 species of monkey were as follows:

1. Two squirrel monkeys - Jimmy and Elvis.
Elvis was the pesky one who loved to nibble, especially on fingers or chins! A bit of a surprise if you didn't know him:
Aaron and Elvis
Jimmy seemed to think he was a golden retriever, luckily the two retrievers he hung out with were very patient!
2. Canelo ('cinnamon') the only howler monkey - always with such a sad face! He had been unwell for a few weeks and so was being spoiled both by Marcelo and Vicky (the owners of the refuge) and by Nina (the adorable spider monkey).
3. Two Owl monkeys. Despite appearances these were not the friendliest of monkeys. Owl monkeys are very territorial and I now have a small scar on my neck to prove it!
Actually come to think of it he isn't looking too friendly in this photo!
4. About 15 Capuchin monkeys.
These are smartest of all monkeys and you very quickly saw that in action.
Kimbo, the big baby of the family. He liked to such his thumb, especially if he was cosy down your top! Not as enjoyable when he was wet!
Nikita who seemed to genuinely try to have a conversation with you - despite the fact you clearly had no idea what she was saying. Although Gio did have a good go at answering back.
Nikita, ready to tell you all about it...
Both Kimbo and Nikita liked to share their food, mostly when they were snacking on leaves - they would chew a little bit and then offer them to you. Like you might do when a child does this, I would smile and pretend to chew a bit. Not impressed they simply separated my lips with their hands and stuffed the leaf in my mouth and held my lips shut!! Once satisfied I had chewed then the leaf would be rescued from my mouth to be finished off properly....yummmmm!
Go on! It's delicious....
Kimbo had a knack for getting so buried in your clothing you couldn't ever put him down.

Whilst I was at La Senda Verde Lenteja ('Lentil') arrived - the youngest of the capuchins at 4 months old. Very cute, liked to jump from head to head just when you least expected it.

5. And then there were the spider monkeys.....
Sambo - the alpha male, very much the boss, despite being relatively young and
occasionally throwing tantrums!
Cacao - very much the teenage boy! Lots of noise and fuss, especially around males. Except for with Gio, who he went to to be held. Always making Gio a bit nervous as it was often just after he'd poo'd on someone with all the excitement!
Maruka - at 16 years old, the matriarch of the family. But she had been very badly abused before arriving at the centre. With a broken jaw and a lot of internal damage Maruka was understandably very weary of humans and stayed clear.
Maruka enjoying her porridge
Except for one early morning when Wara woke me trying to get in my room, I sat outside and held Wara, Sambo decided to join us (a bit tricky when 10kg of monkey sit's on your knees) and then Maruka appeared and wrapped herself around my feet. A very unique and heart-swelling start to my day.
Me in my pyjamas overloaded with monkeys
Wara (Aymara for 'Star'). Not sure how to describe Wara. She has to be one of my favourites. Full of character.
Loved to pose by the river or pool - not one for the traditional curled up monkey pose:
Wara by the river
Wara by the pool
She loves to get in to anywhere she shouldn't, and once in had to have a souvenir or a drink. She was would watch in the mornings for people going to the toilet (outside buildings) and know their door would be unlocked and in she'd go! Or the bar, much time was spent chasing Wara around the bar whilst she jumped from table to table - or the rather tricky time when she landed herself on a tray of beers! She was in heaven drinking as much as possible whilst we tried not to drop the tray! But best of all was early morning, when she would bang on the door and the moment it was open, jump on you for a cuddle. My pyjamas would be covered in muddy monkey prints but it was always a blissful start to the day.
Let me in please!
Go on!!
Nina (Aymara for 'fire'). Another real favourite of mine. Oh the cuddles from Nina! Plus spider monkeys have a very unique smell, they have a gland on their chest that releases a type of oil they rub on themselves. I loved this smell. Gio thought I had lost my marbles completely when I first told him about it. But then we talked to Marcelo and discovered this unique gland. I spent many hours sitting holding Nina and marveling at my luck.
Nina showing off her amazing tail
Nina and I hanging out by the river
Pimienta and Trufa were the babies of the spider troop. Generally not interested in us humans, but occasionally joining the others for a cuddle.
Trufa

As you can imagine choosing photos for this blog was hard to do – so be warned there are quite a few here...
One of our jobs was to clean up after the monkeys had eaten, but a few of them - like Naranja above, felt they could do a better job and would steal the brush and keep it for hours!
Canelo feeling a little more content with life
What else can we fit in there?
Is there something in there for me?
I knew there was!
A fella with attitude that preferred walking to flying..
Chewing the fat (well fruit)
My 5am start with Wara
I want fanta!!
Aaron playing catch with Nico
Please let us in!

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

The lake and La Paz

big skies in Bolivia

Despite the rocky start once Gio was back with the land of the living we ventured on to a boat across Lake Titicaca to Isla del Sol for an afternoon. The island and the surrounding views were so amazing we were really sad that we felt we didn't have time to stay on the island itself for a few days.



The Lake is beautiful with views of snow capped mountains and big open skies.



Unfortunately following our afternoon on Isla del Sol it was time to leave the lake the next morning. The drive to La Paz turned out to be fun and filled with amazing views. The fun bit was crossing the lake by boat - we were convinced the bus wasn't going to make it.

La Paz, the highest capital in the world, was much more gentle on us than we expected, especially considering it is 4058 meters (13313 feet) above sea level.
amazing La Paz skyline
Of course we reverted to being the two old grannies clambering up the hills (of which there were a lot), but the hotel we stayed in was pretty nice and the city itself was busy busy but nothing we hadn't seen before. Oh, that is except for the traffic zebras.
La Paz's traffic zebras are young people, who dressed as zebras control La Paz's crazy traffic. The program started in 2001 to control traffic in a friendly manner rather than with tickets etc. The zebras are 'high-risk youths' - 15 to 22 year olds - who earn 400 Bolivianos monthly, $60 ish (for a 20 hr week), plus health insurance. (Minimum wage for full time work in Bovlivia is 650 Bolivianos, $90). They even do little dances to entertain the traffic!

Apart from watching zebras we occupied ourselves in the usual ways - with ice cream and shopping.
There is a lovely chocolate shop in La Paz - I would have never guessed Bolivia would produce lovely chocolate! The witches market also entertained us, although it was a little gruesome - Llama foetuses are sold as good luck 'charms' and are surprisingly big. Euuggh.
witches stall....


Amazing dresses in a street dance - local festival
local women wear bowler hats once they are married


Quinoa plant - beautiful and a super food!